This is a compound miter saw, but I never tilt it to make bevel cuts. That means that the new fence can be optimized for angle cuts only. The major benefit is the support it gives to the stock right where the blade is cutting. While the fence on this saw is perfectly adequate, it can be improved to better suit the way I used this saw. A zero clearance at the fence is effective for reducing the amount of tear-out as the blade cuts through the stock.
I started by removing the old one after marking its position. The stock fence was perfectly straight and square to the blade, so I wanted to preserve that. The first part to make is the base that bolts onto the deck of the saw. I want to be able to quickly replace parts as they become damaged or worn. The original concept was to keep this as simple as possible. But when I made the cut through, I found that the fence needed some backing to keep it from flexing.
And I also realized that I could connect both sides on top just like I did on the bottom, with a ring. So I removed the backing and shortened the upright braces, and laid out a new part for the top:. I need to stress how important it is to check that through every step:. It very effective when cutting smaller parts, but not as much when cutting wide pieces. So a possible future upgrade would be to try to improve that. The support for the stock near the blade is very welcome.
The slot opening is very precisely located at the centre of the pivot:. Making Tapered Craftsman Style Columns. As I've mentioned before, I'm drawing heavily on American craftsman architecture for the overall look for the exterior of the hous I've never owned one and figured I really didn't need one, but when thinking back there are many times I could have used a draw knIf you want to know how to build a miter saw table read through my tips and techniques on this page.
A miter saw table or a miter saw bench is a workbench you build that fits your miter saw perfectly, allowing for optimum board support and customization, like auxiliary fences, board stops, integral clamping, and anything else you can think of. This makes for easier miter cuts and has the additional benefit of being able to create miter saw jigs, plus it provides additional workspace for assembly.
This is always a good thing. You can build a miter saw table in 3 basic sections, the left side, right side, and the recessed middle section.
The sides are there to support long pieces of wood. You can make both sides the same length if you want, but a lot of people tend to always have the long cut off side to the left or right. In this case, you can just make one side of the miter saw table longer than the other, to support the longer cutoff piece. Each side is a basic framed workbench, which can be built with dimensional lumber bought from any home improvement store, including most big box stores.
If you need additional storage space in your shop, you can add some plywood shelving down on the lower leg braces. Just cut it to size and screw it down. This makes it a much easier process. The middle section of the miter saw table is recessed down lower than the 2 sides. This is where the miter saw will be stationed.
This is how much the middle top should be recessed down lower than the top of the 2 sides. This ensures you end up with a level surface across both sides, and the miter saw cutting surface, once everything is complete. That bench will be used for extended board support when needed.
I also built mine with 2 cabinet bases, so I could fill it up with drawers. This method is more advanced, and a topic for another post. However, you can still see how I added the auxiliary fence. Also, I built a custom box around the miter saw, which I hook my vacuum hose to. This creates really good dust control. Larger dust chips still land around the saw, but the airborne dust is pretty much eliminated with this method.
This dust collection too is a topic for another post. This is a hard, slick surface material that you can lay on top of the finished benches. This pine will be nailed to the top of the frame, but the malamine will be floating within this edge banding.
Just make sure you measure the thickness of the malamine, and account for this thickness in the overall height of the miter saw table side pieces, so you can make sure this elevation including the malamine matches the middle section plus the elevation of the miter saw cutting surface.
With this set up you can really get some good use out of your miter saw table. Under the table is great for storage, so find ways to install shelves or drawers for keeping material off the floor and well-organized.
Mount a vertical board down to the table top in line with the saw fence. This can be an extended auxiliary fence that you can clamp stop-blocks on for added versatility and better repeatability in your cuts.
This page may have affiliate links. For more information see my disclosure page. About The Author Adam has been woodworking for the last 10 years. He considers himself a 'Small Shop Woodworker' and practices his hobby in his garage. With the lack of time, space, and proper tools, he always finds ways to get great results without over-complicating or over-thinking the process.
Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. God has blessed him with a beautiful family, as well as a passion for teaching others about woodworking.Here you will find my new miter saw workbench.
This is ShantyChic's design and it is great. I modified a few measurements to fit my saw and changed the compartments a little on the top. You can find the full instructions on ShantyChic's website.
Next I made the cuts for the compartment sides. I placed them where I wanted and then added the tops. I've made a virtually identical set up, however mine is in the form of a board that clamps to my tabletop. When not in use the board sits up against a wall, and my tabletop is clear for whatever I need. Also the board can go in my car easily and go wherever I need, and it sets up easily on a couple of saw horses if I need my table for something else.
It's pretty good. The only thing i would change is adding some rollers to make it much easier to slide the wood. Reply 4 years ago. I like it. I want to build one but I'm trying to determine the best method for the table to collapse.
The Best Miter Saw
If your bottom shelf fits inside the top frame you could potentially stand it in a corner or lean up against a wall if collapsed. I'm not sure how I would do it. Maybe there is some way to make the legs secure but quick release where they attach under the table and just allow the bottom shelf to drop into place on the bottom. I have minimum skill in carpentry How did you go about getting the correct measurements for the top.
Lastly how did you attach the taller boards in the step 6 picture? The compartment boards were ripped first. I ripped one long sheet to the height I wanted and then mitered the lengths. I set the miter saw where I wanted it to go before I decided on the compartment sizes. The back fence boards were attached with pocket hole screws.
I put the straightest 2x4 on the miter saw to line up the fence boards before screwing them down. It was fairly easy to do. This looks great! There is one addition that I would highly recommend. On my saw bench, I built a open top drawer that is slightly wider and deeper than the saw table and about 6" deep. Cut some holes in the deck that supports the feet of the saw. Make them large enough that most small off cuts can fall into the drawer. This allows the majority of sawdust and off cuts to fall into the drawer, making cleanup MUCH easier.
Just pull it out and empty it. You can also add a sliding panel near the front of the drawer bottom. Pull the drawer part way out, put a trash can under the panel, slide the panel open, and scrape the waste into the trash.Video - September 13, This is a quick look at the construction of my No Fence Miter Station. For years, people have been asking to see my take on a miter station.
I never thought it would hold much interest because my idea of the perfect miter station is really just a couple banks of cabinets with a saw between them. After getting my Denver shop in order, I decided it was time to embark on this build. And even though I felt it might be a somewhat uninteresting design, I really needed the storage and additional work support. In the end I think a fence does more harm than good. Allow me to explain and bust a few myths.
In reality, the only reference surface that matters is the one that came with the saw. By placing a long fence on either side of the saw, we actually create a liability since fences eventually need calibration. If the fence sticks out or the saw shifts back, the fence will be in the way. Many people combat this by installing their fence extensions just slightly behind the stock fence. This means the workpiece no longer makes contact with the fence and the fence is much less likely to get in the way.
Even a slightly bowed piece registering off a long fence will result in an out of square cut at the blade. As does a simple t-track.
Some might argue that a flat t-track collects dust, and it does, but since when is that a problem? My table saw and router table also have miter slots that collect dust and I somehow get by. After using this saw for over a year now, I can honestly say that sawdust in the t-track has never been an issue.
The dust is either pushed out of the way by the bolt in the stop or it gets cleaned up during regular shop vacuuming. This is obviously a matter of knowing your habits and your level of cleanliness.
I agree that a fence would make it harder to pile stuff on the bench. But if you do specialized work that absolutely requires one or perhaps you just like the way they look, all the power to you. The Wood Whisperer is proudly sponsored by brands that Marc trusts.
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However, there are millions of products and services on the web, and I only promote those products or services that I would use personally. The Wood Whisperer abides by word of mouth marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard. Should I ever be compensated to write, I will make full disclosure. I always give honest opinions, findings, and experiences on products. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely our own.This is a critical measurement because the height of the infeed and outfeed tables must be equal to the depth of saw deck to ensure seamless support.
For accuracy, use a marking gauge instead of a tape measure to measure from the top of the saw deck down to a flat surface. A small combination square will maintain the precise measurement until you change it.
Mark out the pieces of the project on a sheet of plywood. After those 8 pieces have been cut marked with an Xany remaining pieces can be used to make smaller pieces -- including the feet for the miter saw.
The required cuts are 9" wide x 8' long for two sides; 9" wide x 16" for four box ends; tops cut from the remaining wood. A shoot board can be used to guide the circular saw through the long cuts. Mark out the notches on each of the two side pieces. Use the same combination square with the precise measurement from step 1 to mark the depth of the notch.
The width of the notch is the width of the swing of the bevel of the miter saw, plus 6". Set the table saw fence to the proper depth, once again using the combination square measurement from step 1. Measure from the teeth of the saw blade. Place the first side piece on the table saw and make an upside down plunge cut to start the notch Image 1.
For the crosscuts, use a circular saw. To finish cutting out the notch, use a hand saw Image 2. Repeat these cuts for the second side piece. On a large, flat surface, set the two side pieces upright with the box ends between them.
Screw gussets into the corners to help you keep your miters square Image 1. Screw the corners together flush and remove gussets before putting on the top. Put a top on each box Image 2. Make two skids out of some of the leftover plywood. A skid Image 1 comprises two pieces, a top and a bottom. Chamfer the bottom skid so that it fits between the sides of the box easily. Screw skids in place Image 3. Screw the saw to the skids. Build It.
No Fence Miter Station
Mark the Plywood Mark out the pieces of the project on a sheet of plywood. Mark the Notches Mark out the notches on each of the two side pieces. Make Plunge Cuts and Crosscuts Set the table saw fence to the proper depth, once again using the combination square measurement from step 1.
Connect the Corner and Attach a Top On a large, flat surface, set the two side pieces upright with the box ends between them. Screw skids in place and the saw to the skids. Make and Attach Skids to the Saw Make two skids out of some of the leftover plywood.
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How to Make a Miter Saw Workstation
Bargain Mansions am c. Bargain Mansions 8am 7c. Bargain Mansions 9am 8c. Bargain Mansions 10am 9c.Hey there, everyone! I finally upgraded my miter saw bench and built a DIY mobile miter saw bench for my shop! That was my life for the past 5 years, but not anymore. I finally have a proper bench to hold my miter saw, plus tons of cabinet space for storing other tools, and also a fence with flip stops to help me make those multiple cuts so much easier and accurate. I cut my plywood pieces for the main carcass of the bench and began assembling it.
Next, I installed the center dividers. Once the bottom frame was attached, I added the casters. Once the pull out shelves were built, I installed the drawer glides to the bench. By the way, the universal drawer slide jig from Rockler is pretty life changing. For the cabinet doors, I marked and predrilled the holes, then installed the euro hinges. Pre-drilling the holes saves you a ton of time, rather than fumbling around with the screws.
Next, it was time to build the frame for the table top. This will sit flush with the top of the miter saw base. To determine the height of your frame pieces, measure the height of your miter saw base. Measure the thickness of the plywood you are using for the top and subtract that from the miter saw base height to get the width of your frame pieces.
I took down my measurements and cut the corners off with my jigsaw. To install the fence, I lined up my miter saw exactly where I wanted it to go, making sure that the fence on the saw was perfectly perpendicular to the ends of the bench. Once the fence and t-tracks were installed, I bolted the saw to the bench. Thankfully, the idea popped into my head to use threaded insert nuts and bolt it to the bench that way. Needless to say, I was feeling pretty proud of myself after that little epiphany.
The tape measure insert is an optional accessory you can purchase for the t-track fence cap. The tape measure comes with a black plastic insert that slides into the t-track. Measure the distance between the miter saw blade and the edge of the t-track to determine where you should start your tape measure.
I also slid the flip stops into place and the bench was done! Having a level table top to the base will be such a huge game-changer for me. Also, feel free to share your finished photos on social media and tag me addicted2diy or email them to me katie addicted2diy. I love to feature reader projects!
For more shop furniture projects, check out the tutorial for my mobile cart for my Kreg Foreman. It has tons of storage for all of my Kreg tools, plus hidden dust collection!You can find this below:. As important as a miter saw is, you need a good foundation to place them on. A miter saw stand. Some of these designs are made for the beginner, and can be created in a matter of hours.
The first of our DIY miter saw stand plans, is this relatively simple build designed by Whitney Gainer. Portability is another bonus for this DIY miter saw stand plan, with four wheels able to be attached — and these wheels can be interchanged in order to suit your environment, should you need to do so.
It also features a raised bench to align with your miter saw, giving you more room to cut longer boards on. This rolling miter saw stand is designed on buildsomething, and is a compact yet sturdy build. The extendable wings are one of, if not, the best feature of this miter saw stand. As well as the removable wings, a smooth rip fence is designed to lock your boards into place, so you can be assured that your stock will be safe in place. Added to this, are two wheels at the back of the base of the stand, perfect for portability when moving around your workshop.
Designed by Ayisha from The Pursuit Of Handyness, this miter saw stand is a modifiable workbench with a great amount of space for cutting longer boards, and storage space for any odds and ends you may have lying around. One of the best aspects with this miter saw stand design plan is its versatility for additional features. From the folks at Wood Archivist, is one of the most daring miter saw stand plans available to design. It features six wheels for optimal portability, as well as six storage and scrap boxes, and an integrated, tool activated switch for your miter saw.
The platform itself for the miter saw is adjustable, and the space underneath can fit a vacuum with up to 16 gallons of capacity. This folding miter saw stand designed by April Wilkerson is both aesthetically pleasing and incredibly functional. These plans that April has included are easy to follow, and can be adjusted to suit your specific needs.
The scrap box underneath the bench is perfect for additional pieces, but for me — the real winner of this design is the wings which can be folded thanks to the addition of piano hinges. It contains an adjustable saw platform with a mount, and a large cabinet with plenty of storage space. An innovative aspect of this miter saw stand plan is the automatic vacuum, which will switch on automatically once properly sat up.
Another large design with a large array of intricacies, this mobile miter saw stand plan from WoodArchivist is inrec dinly detailed, and features a lot of versatility with the design itself.
Drawers and sturdy casters for mobility are some of the included features, as well as a removable saw platform, folding wings, and a dust collection box with an integrated tool actuated switch to name a few. If you have some experience under your belt and are looking to create a miter saw stand with everything you can possibly need, this is the plan for you.
This plan features more so on the importance of the fence, and how to build a large fence that is also quite stable. The best thing about this plan? This fence can be added to almost any of your standard bases, for example — a cabinet, should you feel the need to do so. This can also be used in addition to one of the miter saw stand plans found in this guide.
This large fence design will eliminate the hazard for flying projectiles, as well as the ability to add markers and angles onto the board for a visual representation, and this is incredibly useful for working with difficult angles. It features an open shelf, which allows for storage of a vacuum should you wish to add one. What are your thoughts on this addition?
Featuring a massive 26 drawers, this design is perfect for storage of almost any accessories you may have lying around the workshop.
Not only does it feature drawers, but also holds a sliding fence on a T-track, a drill press and spindle and belt sander, and two easily accessible dust collection blast gates.
This is a favorite of many due to ease of build, and the innovative design or turning an old barbecue cart into something incredible useful. Some of these designs are tailored for the experienced worker, and some are perfect for the beginner. The best thing about these DIY designs are exactly that — they are done by you, and for your own needs. The satisfaction gained in designing and building your own projects are great, and will give you a great deal of confidence in moving forward with any other projects you look to begin.